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Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art, Honolulu, Hawai‘i. (Photo: David Franzen, 2018.)
Diamond and Ruby-Inset Bracelet (Dasti) with Floral Motifs and Enamelled Floral Ornamentation on Reverse
Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art, Honolulu, Hawai‘i. (Photo: David Franzen, 2018.)
Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art, Honolulu, Hawai‘i. (Photo: David Franzen, 2018.)

Diamond and Ruby-Inset Bracelet (Dasti) with Floral Motifs and Enamelled Floral Ornamentation on Reverse

Date19th century
PeriodBritish India/Princely States
MediumEnameled gold, diamonds, foli-backed rubies
DimensionsOverall: 7/8 x 7 in. (2.2 x 17.8cm)
ClassificationsJewelry
Credit LineGift of the Doris Duke Charitable Foundation. Courtesy of the Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art.
Object number57.61
DescriptionThis bracelet, called a dasti, is made up of alternating rows of rubies and diamonds. A central rosset is composed of a central, uncut diamond surrounded by rubies. The reverse of the bracelet is decorated in enamel with red flowers on a white ground, outlined with green leaves. The practice of enameling the reverse or inner faces of jewelry is characteristic of Jaipur, which was the center of enameling in India in the 1700s and 1800s.

The stones were set using the kundan technique, in which strips of gold are applied around the stones to create the mount. The stones are often backed by gold or silver foil, catching the light and adding to their luminosity.
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