Diamond, Ruby and Sapphire Gold Choker (Ariya) with Floral and Geometric Motifs and Seed Pearl Pendants, with Enamelled (Kundun) Floral Ornamentation on Reverse
Date19th century
PeriodBritish India/Princely States
MediumEnameled gold, diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies, seed pearls, silk cord
DimensionsOverall: 7 1/4 x 5 1/2 in. (18.4 x 14cm)
ClassificationsJewelry
Credit LineGift of the Doris Duke Charitable Foundation. Courtesy of the Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art.
Object number57.56
DescriptionThis necklace is called an ariya, which literally means “wealthy.” This type of ridged, fringed necklace originated in the northern Indian state of Rajasthan. The choker is inlaid with diamonds and rubies forming a row of rosettes with alternating diamonds and rubies at their centers. The top of the choker is lined with seed pearls. Attached to the choker is a cascade of triangular, enameled beads, each set with a diamond and a fringe of seed pearls. The necklace is secured at the back of the neck with a silk cord. The necklace previously belonged to Madame Ganna Walska, a renowned Polish opera singer and expert gardener. Walska sold her expansive collection of Indian jewelry in order to finance the purchase of rare cycad plants for her garden.
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19th century
